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Dress Diaries about a Beret

Vintage Vogue in 1940

When it comes to vintage hat, some luxurious occasions may occur to most people. All following contents will be helpful for no matter who would like to make a vintage hat. From time to time, it's difficult for laymen to sew a striking hat by themselves. It's critical to know all steps ahead of beginning. In other words, one needs reading some useful instructions to get necessary information. I choose a slightly thin wool felt in green as the main material of my hat.

Prior to sew the green hat, I starched the wool felt to hold up well. I intended to use heavy wires when I prepare for it. But only to find my millinery wire in a box could not be replaced.

According to a template, prepare all parts cut and trace threads on them. You'd better tread trace here. The process will not take long time and traces need to be seen on both sides. Now I would like to illustrate functions of every part. The part A is the front; curved end on the left is the end curved down toward the face when someone wears it.

Though I was confused about those parts at the time of beginning, the pointy end is a part of the "bow" on the good finished hat.

Fold the part C along the middle line connecting two pointy ends. Then sew two rounded edges together. After the step, please pull gathering threads till the round one get straight. Though it could not be straight absolutely, please adjust it as much as possible.

Fold the rounded on A and leave a narrow channel between two makings. Please do the other way around in case you want the raw edge turn in. Then threads along markings carefully. Fold it the rounded edge back, but do not press it.

Then attach them together as shown in the following diagram. Seam allowance should jut out on B. It should be done at that point. Look at the inside.

Fold the right side up and sew it invisibly. The stitches on B should be sewn to attach pieces together.

Fold part D lengthwise and press to fix it. In order to get wrapped around it, please prepare more threads as much as possible.  With help of my iron, I steamed the buckram on a hat block. It's unavailable to a Styrofoam ball. One could try to get steam through boiling water in a small saucepan or kettle. It should note that the buckram could not be too wet, because glue between two layers may disappear when it clashes with steam. When the buckram is dry, it is necessary to adjust to fit inside of the hat. It is a useful manner to fix the hat on the buckram with pins along stitching lines.

Then trace a cutting line according to those pins. Sew the buckram onto the hat as instructions, attaching an elastic and grosgrain ribbon. In the end, you will get a hat like this.



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